Sunday, November 23, 2014

Casual!Sasha progress

Yo yo and hello!
I just mean hi. :)

So, I went abroad to visit my mum (and the rest of my family) and it was also an occasion to sew! My mum is very good at sewing so she helped me (and actually did half of my stuff without even asking me). 
The costume I was working on is the casual version of Sasha Blouse (Shingeki no Kyojin / Attack on Titan). References are few but you still see her casual outfit in the anime, at least twice. 
Oh, and sorry about the "pause" signs on the screenshots. :<

Casual!Sasha talking to Mikasa.
In the end of the first season though, Sasha's outfit magically color swaps... Or she has another vest that is exactly like the first one, only different color. =_="

And this is an official scan from (also featuring Mina and Ymir)
I decided to first roll with the version you can see on the scan, aka the brown tones outfit. I started with making the vest but sadly I don't have progress pics of it, due to very bad light and always sewing during night time. :C 
The skirt was also entirely done by my mum (she didn't even ask me. O_o) so I don't have any pics either. ._.
But for the shirt, I have plenty of pics. And I'm probably unable to explain what happens on half of them. 
Also, all pictures are taken with my own camera so I apologize about the quality. :C
Okay, here we go for progress spam! :'D

Pieces cut out. The red threads mark places for future seams.
Piece for the collar's "base".
I made it bigger than usual because the SnK shirts have especially high collars.
Collar piece.
Wrists pieces. I had to cheat a bit on these because I was short on fabric. ._.
And there started the endless preparations before even starting to sew the whole thing together...
Mum convinced me to make darts on my shirt even though it's most usually seen on female clothing. According to her, uniform shirts have darts (and it was originally an element of men's clothing that was kind of stolen for female clothing...) Anyway, these are supposed to mark the waist and make shoulders stand out more. 
Let's dart our way out of here then. :'D

Marking the shape with red thread on both pieces.
Gently pulling the two pieces apart so that the thread appears.
And cutting.
And it's marked!
Next, I pinned the pieces along the red thread marks and sewed the darts.

I had a hard time making the darts of the same length and width but I ended up with something close enough. :'D

Next are details of the wrists.
The spot where buttons come on the wrists is small but ridiculously complicated. The fabric is folded twice so that the "wrong" side doesn't appear. But I'll show you.

"button part" pinned.
Both pieces zigzagged. Middle seam is also done.
I put little glue on the end of the middle seam to strengthen it.
Cutting open the slit within the middle seam.
Now folding the fabric a second time & pinning.
Ready to sew.
Left one is done!
Both wrists "slits" done.
I hope someone can actually make some sense out of my clumsy explanations... OTL
It's especially hard to translate everything to English when I never sew in English. </3

But let's go on with the shoulders. This time it was quick and easy. <3

And done! :)
Next was the real nightmare: the collar.
Shirts also have this upper piece on the back that is just below the collar. It's actually three layers of fabric. Go check on a man's shirt! It's terrible to sew.

Upper back piece ready to sew.
And now to the actual collar nightmare. </3

Collar pieces pinned, "wrong" side up.
And sewn. The red thread marks the middle.
Gluing the tips to make them more solid.
Then I turned the collar inside-out (more like, outside-in, actually) so that the "right" side showed. I also heat-glued interfacing fabric on the collar piece and "base" collar piece to make them stiffer. No one wants floppy collars. :)

Pinning together collar pieces on the shirt.
My mum actually hand sewed this part.

Then came the battle to find buttons. Of course, there weren't enough identical buttons for the shirt in the whole house, so mum and I went to buy some. :') The button quest was a success, and we started seeing the end of this all.

Placing buttons on the wrists.
Done. <3
Then mum and I marked where the rest of the buttons would come. It took some measuring and calculating. Good thing she's better than me at math.

Mum and I went to my grandma for button holes. Yeah, grandma has a better sewing machine that actually does button holes without too many problems so she did this part. ^^; Next, I opened the button holes using a seam ripper. I took care of putting a pin as a block so that there was no risk my seam ripper would cut into the thread.

Slowly... carefully...
And finally it was done!

Sorry that I didn't do detail on arms, but I don't have any pics. Also, arms were pretty simple except for the wrist parts.
One troublesome part was also the collar because I made it higher than usual and so it took several try-ons and cutting off some of it until it was high enough without looking too weird on me. 
Also you maybe noticed that my shirt closes left over right. Well I checked in the manga and noticed that even female's shirts close this way. That saves me the trouble of making another shirt if I want to cosplay some SnK guy! :'D

Next came the vest. I did the green one too and took pics this time! I used the same pattern for the green and brown vests.

Pieces cut out.

Then, starting to sew it together...
Okay okay I admit... my mum did this one. I was spending time with my bro. Actually while I was at mum's place, I was always busy meeting a relative or a friend. Feels like everybody wanted to see me! Like, if I was playing with my bro, my mum went like "Hey your sewing doesn't do itself!" and if I was working on my cosplay, my bro was like "Y U NO play with me?"
So yeah. Go figure.

Anyway, sewing this thing together.
All pieces sewn together!
This is a detail in the back.
This piece gives a very pretty shape to the vest but is kinda tricky to sew right.
It looks like this on the right side. (ignore the color-rape)
Shoulders pinned...
And sewn.
And hemming.
So about the two vests, green & brown. The fabric is this kind of thick-ish fabric. It consists of mostly wool so it has this rough touch/appearance and is quite warm! I will love these in winter cons, heheh. <3 I also though wool fabric would be rather accurate considering that Sasha is from a family of hunters. Also, one scene in Attack on Titan shows that winters are pretty damn cold and snowy. 
Second thing: no matter how much I looked, I couldn't figure out if her vests closed left over right or right over left. I decided to do neither of the two. The closing system is invisible hooks so that the vests seem to close magically, neither way. 

Sewing part A of the hook on the brown vest.
And part B. That's how it closes!
I actually haven't sewn the hooks on the green vest yet. It's quite much hand sewing but it doesn't actually bother me. I don't find hand sewing tedious; on the contrary I like it. I find it calming. :) 
I'll take pics of the finished outfit when I try it on! I want to do a preview sometime, but I don't know when. Right now it's a bit cold for this kind of outfit, hahah. And I currently don't have a potato to use as a prop. ;) Hmmmm potatoes... so good... 

I have the wig for Sasha but I haven't tried it on yet. It probably needs some trimming too. I'll do a post about it. :) 

Bye-bye for now! ~

Sunday, November 16, 2014

Chizuru's jacket is done!

How're you doing, everyone? :)

Remember Chizuru's winter uniform?

Picture from

Well, such a jacket is way too complicated for me to sew. The pattern is very complex and there is just no chance I could make it. </3 So I asked my mum if she could sew it for me and she agreed. She's very kind! <3 
I have some progress pictures but since I'm not the one sewing, I'm not too sure of what is going on. x'3 One thing I know is that my camera likes to color-rape... a lot. The jacket is neither grey, nor electric blue. 
Yeah, if anyone wonders, I am using my own camera. Sorry about the lesser quality. 

It's a sleeve!
Before sewing on the sleeve.
Sleeve hole all pinned.
Same but with the flash, for even more color-rape. </3
The red thread marks where the right side comes.
Pins mark where the buttons will go. There's a lone button too.
Buttons sewn on a sleeve.
And done! :'D
So if the random white and red threads here and there puzzle you: they actually mark some spots so that you know where a seam comes. You use cheap fragile thread for these, hahah.
Nothing really to add except that I'm really happy about the jacket's quality, it's amazing. Can't wait to wear it! :'D

See you next time! ~